I went for about a week of being the only traveller around, with locals trying to convince me I'm crazy for travelling alone and quote-unquote, "Someone could rob you because your are very linda." (???). I started to lie that I have friends but they are working/I'm going to meet them/etc. Then I arrived to Zacatecas, a gorgeous colonial town with a wonderful hostel---full of travellers what a relief! I befriended one of the hostal owners who took me and another girl into a local cantina where women usually aren't allowed---didn't even have a ladies room! Then I also befriended a group of fun vegetarians who have kidnapped me and wisked me off to Real de Catorce.
It usually takes 8 hours to get here. You take a bus, then another bus, then a 25km (about 15 mile) long cobblestone road, then another bus through a creepy one-car tunnel into a mountain valley. Real de Catorce was a rich silver mining town in the 1800's but nearly turned into a ghost town when the price of silver decreased. If you've seen The Mexican with Brad Pitt and Julia Roberts, it was apparently filmed here. It is a magical place with half empty stone buildings and little colonial restaurants and cafes. I've been hiking and cooking with my friends, staying in a really nice cheap apartment with a HEATER and balcony with a great view and loving every day of it.
I'll put up more pics soon, I promise!
25km cobblestone road
One car tunnel